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| About Sixmilebridge - History |
FOR INFORMATION ON SIXMILEBRIDGE FACILITIES, CLICK HERE.
HISTORY OF SIXMILEBRIDGE Sixmilebridge, or Droichead Abhann í gCearnaigh, derives its name in both languages from the bridge over the O'Garney river which flows through the village. The village developed around a crossing point on the river. William Petty, in his Down survey map of 1585, showed a collection of buildings on both sides of the river. Donough O'Brien, the 4th Earl of Thomond, built the present bridge in 1610, but undoubtedly there was an earlier bridge over the river before this date. From then, up to 1802 when the bridge at Bunratty was built, traffic between Limerick and Ennis had to pass through Sixmilebridge. Although D'Esterres bridge and the Oil Mills bridge are downriver from Sixmilebridge and were built in the late 1700s, they were convenient for local traffic only. | | | PLACENAMES The first element of the Sixmilebridge name derives from the fact that the village is approximately 6 Irish miles from Thomondgate in Limerick. The Irish mile, which is 2240 yards in length, along with the Irish acre and the Irish perch were introduced during the Cromwellian land distribution (post 1652), which gives us an earliest date for the Sixmilebridge name. When Thomas Dineley visited Clare in 1681, he used this name. Prior to then, the collection of buildings around the bridge was known as Ballyarrilla and Cappagh. The Ballyarrilla name is now extinct and has been replaced by Ieverstown and Mount Ievers. Cappagh was originally one large townland and was sub-divided at the time of the first Ordnance Survey in the mid 1800s into a number of smaller townlands, all bearing the Cappagh name as a prefix. |
| The name of the Roman Catholic parish is Sixmilebridge and encompasses the three Church of Ireland parishes of Kilfinaghty, Kilmurry and Feenagh. Kilfinaghty commemorates St. Finaghta, an 8th century saint who had his foundation in Ballysheen. The present ruined church in Ballysheen dates from the 13th century and that of Feenagh from the 15th century. The church in Kilmurry was located where the present graveyard is, but has now disappeared. It dated from the 14th century. The earliest reference to these parishes is in papal documents dated 1302, when they were taxed to help fund a crusade to capture Jerusalem. In the post reformation period, the reformed or Anglican church inherited the buildings and parishes of the old Celtic Christian church and retained the original parish names. It is appropriate that Kilfinaghty is preserved in the name of the new public library, located in the de-consecrated Church of Ireland parish church.
EARLY HISTORY A little is known about the early history of the parish. From archaelogical evidence, it is known that people lived in the district in the late Stone age, the Bronze age and the Iron age. Early Christian missionaries visited the area and left their names on blessed wells (St. Mochulla in Rathmore and St. Faoile in Kilmurry) as well as St. Finaghta of Ballysheen. People lived in crannógs, which are man-made or artifically enhanced islands. Rosroe and Mountcashel lakes have examples of these. People also lived in the numerous earthen ringforts, still to be seen in the area. Placenames with the words rath or lios indicate the locations of these ringforts. Political organisation at the time was tribal, the mass of people living under the protection of a tribal or clan chief.
By the 10th century, the Vikings had a permanent settlement in Limerick. They were certainly in the Sixmilebridge area as they were given a grant of land by the O'Briens, who were the dominant Clare clan at the time, stretching from the city up to into the Cratloe hills. This grant is believed to be the explanation of why the diocese of Limerick now extends into Clare as far as Sixmilebridge village. Three quarters of the village is in the Diocese of Killaloe, while the remainder is in the parish of Cratloe, in the Diocese of Limerick.
| | | THE NORMANS In the late12th century, the Normans, from their base in Limerick, moved into southeast Clare.The centre of their activity was at Bunratty where they built a stone castle and a manor. Access to Bunratty from Limerick was by sea and by road through Sixmilebridge. Sixmilebridge would have been of great strategic interest to them as it controlled the river crossing on this road. As the Normans sought to consolidate their territory, the native Irish fiercely resisted them. To protect their territory, the Normans built a castle in Quin and a settlement in Kilmurry. Kilmurry is named after them as the name in Irish is Cill Mhuire na nGall - the church of Mary of the Foreigners. The Kilmurry settlement was on a hilltop and included a church and fortifications. It is now a graveyard and it is possible to identify the remains of a circular earthwork around the hilltop. The Normans were finally defeated by a joint army of Clare clans, led by the O'Briens, at the battle of Dysert O'Dea, near Ennis in 1318. After their defeat, the O'Briens consolidated their position as Clare's strongest clan, with their allies, the McNamaras, as the dominant clan in the eastern part of the county.
A long period of relative peace followed. There was sporadic inter-clan warfare and battles within clans for leadership. New churches were built (e.g. Feenagh) and older ones repaired (e.g. Ballysheen). Stone tower houses (or castles) were built by the clan leaders as a demonstration of their power and as protection from rivals. In the Sixmilebridge area, the numerous tower houses still to be seen in the landscape, in various stages of decay, were built by the McNamaras in the late 15th and early 16th centuries. The tower house at Ballycullen appears to be an early construction whereas that at Rosmanagher is later; being much better built and laid out.
A PROTESTANT COLONY Although the Normans had been defeated in Clare, their descendants, the English, were steadily extending their area of control in Ireland. By 1540 they had brought Clare under their indirect control by supporting one of the O'Briens in a family dispute. By 1580, Donough O'Brien, the 4th Earl of Thomond, who had pledged allegiance to the English throne and who had converted to the Anglican church, introduced Protestant settlers to Clare. He selected Sixmilebridge (along with Doonass and Ennis) to be one of the towns where these new settlers or colonists would be given leases. The settlers came not only from England but also from France (the D'Esterres) and Holland (the Vandeleurs). A church was built, two ministers of religion were hired and new bridges were built across the O'Garney in Sixmilebridge and the Gourna on the road to Limerick. The settlers built stone houses and planted gardens. The village expanded on the western side of the river and the layout of the streets and many of the houses as we see them now took shape during this period. |
|  | In 1646 a rebellion broke out in Ireland. An alliance of royalists and native Irish clan leaders, collectively called the Confederates, attacked the settlers. They fled from Sixmilebridge and their property and the church were destroyed. The Confederate forces then laid siege to Bunratty, using Sixmilebridge as a base. Bunratty was eventually captured but not before Sixmilebridge was burned. During this siege, castles at Cappagh, Rosmanagher and Ballintlea were attacked and damaged. The Confederates ultimately failed in their rebellion due to the arrival of Oliver Cromwell and his army. In the aftermath, those McNamaras and others who had retained their lands were dispossessed and their castles damaged or destroyed. Gallows Hill, one of the Cratloe Hills to the east of Sixmilebridge, is believed to have got its name from the summary executions of rebels by the Cromwellian forces. Native Irish from east of the Shannon were forcibly moved from their homes and resettled in this area. The Earl of Thomond however, retained his property and was granted more in return his allegiance. New settlers were given or purchased lands. Of the new arrivals, the most significant in terms of Sixmilebridge, was the Ievers family.
The Ievers initially lived in a seized McNamara castle, located where Mount Ievers Court is now built. They purchased land and leased more from the Earl of Thomond, all on the eastern side of the O'Garney river and stretching up to the Cratloe hills. Sixmilebridge slowly recovered from the war but the new settlers were not to live in peace for very long.
Another rebellion broke out in the 1690s in which William of Orange and the deposed James II battled for the English throne. Irish Catholics took the side of James in the hope of having their confiscated lands returned to them. This rebellion ended in defeat for the Catholic Irish with the signing of the Treaty of Limerick. Sixmilebridge appears to have been loyal to William during the rebellion as his cavalry was stationed in the village during the siege of Limerick. |
| ECONOMIC GROWTH With the Irish leaders and the bulk of the army exiled on the continent as the Wild Geese, the chances of further rebellion greatly diminished. The Earl of Thomond again resumed his policy of attracting Protestant settlers. Numerous leases from this period and from the 18th century attest to his efforts in this area. Sixmilebridge experienced a period of growth which was to last almost 100 years, until the beginning of the 19th century. Moland's maps of the Thomond estates, prepared in 1703, show a number of houses in Sixmilebridge, and also in Newpark and Cappagh. A new church was built, as was a courthouse and bridewell and a police barracks. In 1733, the Ievers, in imitation of the O'Brien efforts on the west side of the river, laid out the east side of the village. The centrepiece of their development was a market house and adjacent square which ran down to the river. The square was named Hanover Square and the streets radiating off were named Henry, Orange and George's Street. George's Street terminated in Frederick square, which is more a triangle, as it is bounded on two sides by buildings and a millpond on the third side. Corn and woolen mills were constructed along the O'Garney, the remains of which remain to a varying extent. The village also contained a brewery and distillery and cider was made. The market house sold a large variety of agricultural foodstuffs, lace and woolen goods. A cattle fair was held in the square beside the market house. Another fair was also held in the D'Esterre lands in Newpark.
Much of the wealth derived from this industry, stayed in the hands of the minority Protestant colonists. The penal laws, which were enacted after the siege of Limerick, ensured that the native Irish were deprived of commercial and political power and religious and educational freedom during much of this period. Little is known of their life but that they existed as tenant farmers, labourers and small shopkeepers. Travellers in Ireland at the time report people living in numerous poor cabins at the sides of the road. There were famines in the 18th century, due to prolonged periods of frost, which killed the potato and corn crops and caused widespread death from starvation and cholera. These famines were minor compared with what was to come. In the second half of the century, it became more profitable to raise cattle rather than have tillage, due to demand from Britain. Fields which were largely open at this time, were enclosed and tenants were evicted. Many of the field boundaries we have today, originate from this period. These enclosures were violently resisted by a secret society called the Whiteboys or Levellers but ultimately to no avail. The Whiteboys were very active in North Clare but apparently less so in the Sixmilebridge area.
A military force called the Sixmilebridge yeomanry was set up to protect the interests of the minority and to ensure that the majority Irish did not rise up as had happened in the previous century. Hanover square's alternative name was the Parade, so called because of drills and displays put on by the militia. A remnant of that time is the ramp to the river opposite Crowe's shop, which was constructed to allow the militia's horses to access the river water. Mount Ievers Court, the residence of the Ievers family, has two sentry positions which were manned by the militia. | | The Ievers built Mount Ievers Court, a Queen Anne style house, in the 1730s. It was designed by John Rothery, who also designed the Market house. A stone plaque to this effect may be seen in the present Auction rooms, dated 1733. Bricks for the the Ievers' house were brought by ship from the Netherlands and landed at the Oil Mills quay in the present day Roche-Kellys farmyard. The brickworks which existed at the time along the lower O'Garney river, did not produce bricks of suitable quality for the Ievers house. Exports from the Oil Mills were rape seed oil and later soap, manufactured at the Mills. Undoubtedly there were other exports and imports but no record of these remain. Remains of the quay walls, warehousing, the soap factory and stone mill wheels may still be seen. |  |
| Carriage of goods by water directly to Sixmilebridge, rather than off-loading at Limerick port may appear unusual, but it was a reflection of the extremely poor state of the roads at the time. An act of George II in 1733 authorised the construction and repair of a road from Tubber on the Clare/Galway border through Ennis, Ardsollus, Sixmilebridge and Mount Ievers to the North Liberties of Limerick. This road is now the Wood road and the R462 to Sixmilebridge. After Sixmilebridge, the road continued to Ballycar where the present day Crabtree pub was an inn on the route. There had been a roadway of some sort between Limerick and Sixmilebridge from at least the time of the Normans in the 14th century. The pre-1733 road may still be seen to the north and south of Poulawooly bridge. (As a point of interest, Poulawooly is a corruption of Poll an Mhárla, the marl hole. Marl was used a fertiliser and a fee had to be paid to the McNamaras of Ballintlea castle for extracting this marl). Pelham's map of 1787 shows the road network around Sixmilebridge at the time. In addition to the road to Limerick, roads are shown to Bunratty, Rosmanagher, Ballycar, Kilmurry (which crossed the river at Mountcashel and not at Annagore as it now does) and Gallows Hill. The road network was poor at the time and was not substantially improved or extended until the 19th century when existing roads were widened and new roads and bridges were built.
DECLINE AND FAMINE The 19th century saw a decline in the fortunes of Sixmilebridge. Visitors to the village in 1801, 1837 and 1845 commmented on the poor condition of the village at the time of their visit and contrasted it with its industrious past. This economic decline was nationwide and was attributed, in part, to the defeat of Napoleon in the battle of Waterloo in 1815. Ireland had provided horses, wool and food for the British army and with the advent of peace, demand for these products dropped considerably. However, the decline in Sixmilebridge predated this battle. Contributing factors to the decline were investor unease caused by the 1798 rebellion, the adverse effects of the Act of Union in 1801, trade barriers to Irish imports into Britain, the construction of the road and bridge at Bunratty in 1804 which meant that Sixmilebridge was bypassed, and the indolence of some landlords who absented themselves from their estates and only showed an interest on May 1 and November 1, the"gale" days, when rent was due from their tenants.
The lot of the native Irish did not materially improve. Although the penal laws were repealed, the majority population continued to survive at a subsistence level. Small holders with their own land grew potatoes, kept a pig and purchased milk and other neccessities. Few were willing to invest money to improve their property as their tenancy was not secure. Indeed, few could put money aside to tide them over a lean period. The larger farmers, that is with 15 acres or more, had some cushion. The landless, who made up the majority of the population had no cushion at all. As the population increased, people squatted in the upland parts of the parish and previously uncultivated land was brought into use. The remains of raised potato beds may still be seen in the wet uplands near Oatfield.The network of paths, especially in the Cratloe Hills, attests to a large population density, now of course all gone. Similarly disappeared is the large number of houses in Corlea townland, surveyed in the 1840s and shown on the first edition of the 6" Ordnance Survey map. The table below shows how the population of Sixmilebridge parish changed in the first half of the 19th century. (the figures for 1821 and 1831 are estimates). | |
Civil Parish 1821 1831 1841 1851 Kilfinaghty 3800 2400 Kilmurry 700 527 Feenagh 1018 555
Total 4494 5225 5518 3482
The sharp drop between 1841 and 1851 was of course due to the Great Famine of 1845 to 1850. The disappeared either died from illness or starvation or emigrated, but is not known how many fall into each category. They were mainly from the landless segment of the population and have left little or no physical remains. The houses they lived in were one-roomed cabins, most of which have disappeared with the passage of time. There is also very little folklore about the effects of the famine other than a report of the starving of Cratloe who were reduced to eating grasses. This lack of folklore is paralled in the rest of Ireland and was puzzling to historians for a long time. It is now believed that the survivors of that period suffered from what is termed "survivor guilt" and choose not to talk about that event. | | 1852 ELECTION RIOT Compared with other parts of Ireland, Sixmilebridge had been relatively peaceful since the 1690s. In the post-famine period, this changed dramatically and the causes of the subsequent disturbances were tenant rights and land reform. In 1852, a riot occurred outside the courthouse in which 9 locals were shot by a detachment of the British army. The soldiers were escorting a group of 40 farmers from Meelick to vote in the Parliamentary election. They were attacked by a crowd of 200 people, led by 3 local parish priests, who feared they were going to vote for the Conservative candidate (Vandeleur) rather than the Irish Independence candidates (O'Brien and Fitzgerald). | | | They threw stones at the escort and attempted to get at the voters. The soldiers fired their weapons, killed the 9 and dispersed the crowd. Reading the reports of the subsequent inquest, courtcase, petition to Parliament and newspaper comment, it is clear that there was a deep split in society. On one side were the minority large landowners, educated, loyal to the crown, condescending to their tenants and protestant who regarded the majority population as ungrateful and treacherous. On the other side were small farmers, shopkeepers, labourers, the unemployed, with some education, catholic, having little power, prone to violence and with an aversion to the system that treated them as second class citizens. |
| INDEPENDANCE Some landlords who survived the famine sought to make their land more productive by drainage, for example the O'Garney drainage works of the 1860s, by cultivating upland soils as carried out in Cloghoolia by Thomas Cregan, by straightening field boundaries and reorganising tenancies - known as striping - , as was done in Cloghoolia and Cooleycasey and by providing improved housing for their tenants, for example in the Leconsfield estate in Ballysheen and Moygalla and in the Wilson-Lynch estate in Belvoir. Wilson-Lynch was an exceptional landlord in that he took a genuine interest in the condition of his tenants and built schools for their children, one of which has been reconstructed in Bunratty folk-park. Other landlords were not willing to change or negotiate with their tenants, for example the D'Esterres of Rosmanagher, and these were boycotted in a campaign organised by the Land League. By the end of the 19th century, after a succession of acts of Parliament, and by the extension of the vote, power was effectively transferred to the majority population. The division of the large estates and transfer of land ownership to the majority was not completed until after the new state was founded in 1921. The population decline of Sixmilebridge continued into the 20th century as a resilt of emigration and people not marrying or marrying late in life. The decline of Sixmilebridge as a functioning village was halted in the 1950s due to the arrival of Shannon Airport and its associated industrial zone and improvements in methods of agriculture. Sixmilebridge is now one of the major population centres of Co. Clare. | |
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